Donald in AZ
The grease tube split at the seam which seems to be a common thing these days with multiple items of this type that I have used (some related others not). No problem, just slipped it into a sandwich bag to keep the mess down. You will need a traditional filter cleaner when transition from petroleum based to bio based filter oil so plan on having something strong on hand for the initial wash if using the old stuff. Once setup with the new stuff the cleaner works as advertised, is fairly quick and painless. Much less of a mess than dino oil. Application of the bio oil is a bit messy. I started using a 1 gallon zip lock bag to reduce the mess and save some filter oil. Drop the filter in the bag, add some oil, seal, massage around to cover the filter. Then pop the bag open and squeeze out excess back into the ziplock bag. Press out the air and save for the next re-oil session. This is the green oil with the water based (vs alcohol) carrier so dry time takes longer. I usually put it back on the filter frame, and back on the bike. Then leave the door open overnight to allow the water carrier to flash off. Close the door the next day and you are good to go. If doing filter changes between motos or whatever you had better have a backup that you can rotate in due to the dry times. No issues with the backfire screen removed and another brand's filter. Likely removes one of the two flammable risks. Will swap out filters to the notoil one when this one wears out to get the additional flame resistance as final insurance.Read All Reviews
Brian in CA
Being a radiator flush, can't really tell if it got rid of deposits or not. I'll assume it did. The reason for the average rating is that it does not mention in the directions that this product will foam up and out of the radiator when it starts to react with the deposits. I would buy it again. But next time I would not make the mess by just putting it in and immediately putting the radiator cap on and let it sit.Read All Reviews
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