How To - Replace A Clutch On An ATV Or A Motorcycle Video
How To - Replace A Clutch On An ATV Or A Motorcycle
If you need to replace a clutch on an ATV or a motorcycle, but you could use some help, you have come to the right place. Our step by step video will walk you through how to replace a clutch on an ATV or a motorcycle. Watch our industry expert as he to replace a Clutch on a dirt bike. Trust us to have the answers and instructions you need – every time.
Hi, I'm Eric from rockymountainatvmc.com and today I'm going to show you how to replace a clutch on an ATV or a motorcycle.
To start with, you're going to need a service manual. It will give you the specifications and procedures you'll need that are specific to your vehicle. We're going to put in a Tusk clutch kit today. It's always a good idea to soak the friction plates. Overnight is best. Go ahead and get the oil evenly on both sides.
On some bikes it's going to be necessary to remove the brake pedal. On other bikes you can just put the pedal out of the way, and to do this we're going to spread the brake pads and then push down on the brake pedal and wedge a screw driver to hold that lever down.
We'll then go ahead and take off the clutch cover. Of course you'll need to have the oil drained before you take off the cover. On some machines, especially a lot of the later four-strokes, you have to take the entire side case off. It doesn't have just a clutch cover.
With the bolts removed we can go ahead and take the clutch cover off. This is a great time to inspect your gaskets. Some models have O rings, and others are actually gaskets. You probably will have to replace it. We're going to take the pressure plate off by loosening the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
Now I've got the bolts, and there are springs right behind them, so I'll set those aside. I'm going to take the pressure plate off. When you do this, there should be the lifter. On some models, there is actually a ball bearing that sits in the bottom of that, so watch out for that.
Next, we're going to take the plates out. Some machines may have judder springs or cushion rings. If you're re-installing an OEM clutch, these will need to go back in, so pay close attention to how these were positioned. Judder springs or cushion rings will not go back in with most after-market clutch kits unless the instructions say otherwise. On this particular Tusk kit, they will not go back in.
Now is a great time to inspect the outer basket and inner hub. If there is any grooving, it will actually make the clutch feel grabby. If there is excessive wear, it might be necessary to replace both items.
Now we're going to go ahead and re-install the clutch plates, and you always start with the friction, and then a metal or steel. This could be steel or aluminum. Just keep alternating until you get to the last plate. The last plate will again be, if you've done it correctly, will be a friction plate. Now the lifter is going to go back on, the pressure plate, the springs and the bolts.
We're going to tighten these in a crisscross pattern at approximately seven to nine foot pounds of torque. Refer to your service manual for exact specifications. Clean off the sealing surfaces, and put your clutch cover back on. The specifications are normally about eight pounds of torque for the outer cover.
Go ahead and pump your brake back up. Now is a great time to fill the engine back up with oil, and then we need to check our clutch lever free play. You need about three to four millimeters of free play. If you don't have free play and the cable is too tight, it can cause premature wear of your clutch plates. Once you do this, you're all done.