Eagle Manufacturing Drill Through Subframe Bolt Upgrade - KLR650 Video
Eagle Manufacturing Drill Through Subframe Bolt Upgrade - KLR650
Our informative video will walk you through how to install the Eagle Manufacturing Subframe Bolt Upgrade Kit. Watch our industry expert as he installs the Subframe Bolt Upgrade Kit. Rocky Mountain ATV/MC is your online information source for several online videos that provide step-by-step instructions.
Hi. This is Justin from RockyMountainATVMC.com and JakeWilson.com. Today, I'm going to show you how to install the Eagle Manufacturing Subframe Bolt Upgrade Kit.
If you ride a KLR 650, we highly recommend that you upgrade your subframe bolts. The stock bolts are made up of a low-grade material and may leave you stranded. Eagle Manufacturing has 2 Subframe Bolt Upgrade Kits. The first kit simply just replaces the stock weak bolts with higher 12.9-grade bolts. This is a great kit for the average commuter. If you're going to be taking you KLR 650 adventure riding and you have panniers or any weight on your bike, you'll want to get the drill-through bolt kit. The Drill-Through Subframe Bolt Upgrade Kit is the kit that we're going to install on this KLR.
The first thing that we're going to do is remove the side plates. Once the side plates are removed, go ahead and take off the seat, then you can move to the tank. On the tank, make sure to take off the vent hoses off the back of the tank and also the two hoses running to the petcock. Once the tank is out of the way, we're going to loosen the hose clamp on the back of the carburetor; this hose clamp holds the air boot to the carburetor. Once that's loose, we're going to remove the silencer. The reason we're removing the silencer and loosening the boot on the carburetor is so we can get the subframe out of the way. Getting these two things out of the way makes that a lot easier.
Once the silencer is off, we're going to loosen the lower subframe bolts, and then we're going to completely remove the upper subframe bolts. Once the upper subframe bolts are out of the way, we're going to let the subframe drop back, which is going to pull the air boot off the carburetor. With the carburetor air boot open and the carburetor open, you're going to want to make sure to put a rag in the carburetor and air boot so you don't get metal shavings in either of those.
Now that we have the subframe out of the way, we should have plenty of access to the holes in the frame. Now we're ready to start drilling the frame. When you're drilling the frame, you want to make sure you're using a good cutting oil or drill oil, if nothing else a motor oil, but it's important to keep the bit oiled as you're drilling through the frame. Start out with the 5/16 bit to pile that hole through the frame. When you're drilling the frame with the 5/16 bit, drill through the frame about halfway on each side. Don't try to do the whole thing from one side. You'll be surprised how easy it is to drill that hole crooked. Once you've drilled all the way through with the 5/16 bit, use the 13/32 bit and slowly drill through the frame going halfway through each side, just like you did with the 5/16 bit.
Be patient when you're drilling. The frame is solid in the middle and it does take a little bit of time to drill all the way through the frame. Once the frame is completely drilled through, you're going to do the same thing to the subframe. Start with the 5/16 bit, drill through each side of the subframe and then use the 13/32 bit, drilling through each side of the subframe. Once you've drilled through the frame and the subframe, it's time to clean up your mess. Get an air hose or whatever you need to blow away the shavings from drilling. Make sure everything's clean. Make sure you don't have anything in your air boot or carburetor. Remove the rag, and then you're ready to install the bolt.
Install the bolt on one side of the subframe, through the frame, and then on the other side, install the spacer and the nut. Once that's on, you're going to torque the nut to 33 foot-pounds; you may need to go a little more than that, especially if you have a gap in between the subframe and frame. Once that's tight, we can replace the lower subframe bolts. We'll go ahead and remove the stock subframe bolts, and as you can see looking at the stock subframe bolts, it already shows a lot of wear on it. We're going to apply a little bit of thread locker to the new bolt and install the lower bolt and washer. Once it's in, we're going to tighten it up to 18 foot- pounds, and we're good to go.
Now that you've upgraded your subframe bolts, you're not going to have to worry about your subframe falling off out in the middle of the desert.