How To Change Motorcycle Brake Pads Video
How To Change Motorcycle Brake Pads
If you need to replace the brake pads on your motorcycle, but could use a little help, you’ve come to the right place. Our informative video will walk you through how to replace your motorcycle brake pads correctly and in a short amount of time. Watch our industry expert as he replaces the brake pads on both a front and rear motorcycle wheel while providing helpful hints that make the job fast and easy. Rocky Mountain ATV/MC is your online information source. We have several online videos that provide step-by-step instructions on how to replace brake pads, install a new clutch, balance a motorcycle wheel, repair a tire and complete many other maintenance and repair jobs on your motorcycle. Trust us to have the answers and instructions you need – every time.
Hi. I'm Eric, from RockyMountainATVMC.com. Today, I'm going to show you how to replace the brake pads, front and rear, on a motorcycle.
We'll need a service manual and some common hand tools. Rocky Mountain sells a wide variety of brake pads in various compounds. The 2 most popular compounds are the carbon and centered metal. Carbon pads generally create less heat and are better for dry riding conditions. Centered metal pads offer higher friction and recommended for mud, sand, and racing. We're going to install the Tusk Centered metal brake pads.
To start with, we're going to spread the brake pads to give us a little extra room in there. It also pushes the piston back into the caliper. We're going to remove the brake pin. On some models, such as KTMs, that's held in with clips instead of the pins, so you just go ahead and pull those clips out.
Back to the Honda. We're going to pull the pads out. Sometimes you have to wiggle them around or move the wheel sometimes to get them out. We're going to clean off our brake pin. We're going to inspect it for grooves. If there's any grooves, go ahead and replace it. We're going to take our new pads and put them back in the caliper. The one end has a dog-ear on it. You need to make sure it gets in the right slot. I like to start the pin on the one side, then we're going to go to the inner pad, slide that in its front groove. Sometimes you have to wiggle it around, maneuver it. Slide the pin the rest of the way through. Make sure there's no binding, then tighten that up. Generally, it's about 13 foot pounds, but refer to your service manual for the correct specifications for your machine.
An important part is to pump the brake back up to push that piston back out.
Moving onto the front, we're going to remove the disc guard, and then we need to spread our brake pads again. You can see, we're carefully pushing the pistons back into the caliper. There's a little cover that covers the brake pin. We're going to remove that, and then inside is the actual brake pin. We'll take that out, remove the pads. Once again, sometimes you have to move things around a little bit to get the pads to fall out.
We're now going to install the new pads. Because it's difficult to see, I have removed the caliper to show how the pads fit into the caliper. It's important to make sure the ear of the pads fit into the caliper properly. We're going to install a Tusk brake pin. It actually has an 8mm head on it, so it does away with the cap and the Allen brake pin. This makes it so it's a little bit faster to remove, plus there's no chance of losing the cap or messing up the threads.
We've got that in, we pump the brakes back up to push the piston back out against the pads, and you're done.