How To Change Wheel And Engine Bearings Video

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How To Change Wheel And Engine Bearings

If you need to replace engine and wheel bearings, but you could use some help, you are in luck. Our step by step video will walk you through how to change wheel and engine bearings. Watch our industry expert as he replaces the bearings. Trust us to have the answers and instructions you need – every time.


Hi, I'm Eric from the and today I'm going to show you how to change wheel bearings.

We're going to do that today using our Tusk Bearing Removal tool. Some things we're going to need today, some high-quality grease, some good high- quality bearings, we sell both pivot works and all-balls, and some contact cleaner.

The Tusk bearing removal tool comes with different sized collets, so you can so you can remove bearings ranging from eight millimeters to 30 millimeters ID. To demonstrate this, we're going to pick the collet that is closest to the inside diameter of the bearing. Slide that in, and we'll thread in the spreader bolt, which will spread in the fingers against the inner race of the bearing, then we'll go ahead and attach the slide hammer and slide it out.

We're going to start today by removing the spacer on a KTM hub. We're going to go ahead and pick a collet that is just slightly smaller than the spacer, going to slide it in and spread the fingers with the spreader bolt. We're going to attach the slide hammer and pull it out. On KTM's, the spacer is more of a press bit. Other models, you wouldn't need to do this step. That slides right out and that's exposed our outer seal. We're just going to go ahead and use a flat blade screw driver to pop that out. They normally come out pretty easily.

Once the seal is removed, go ahead and check for any bearing retainers. Sometimes there's a clip, sometimes a threaded piece. Different bikes have different sorts of retainers. Some don't have any at all. The retainer must be removed to get the bearing out.

Now we're going to go ahead and choose our collet that is, once again, just slightly smaller than the inner race of the bearing. If you use a collet that's considerably smaller than the bearing, then try to use the spreader as boldly as possible to try to break the fingers off. So you need to make sure and get as close to the right diameter as possible. You can go ahead and slide the slide hammer in it again. This is going to take more force.

Go ahead and turn the wheel over and repeat the steps for the other side. Be careful. On some rear wheels you'll have two bearings on the sprocket side. It's a lot easier to remove those one at a time than trying to pull both of them together.

As we prepare for reassembly, we want to make sure everything is clean. Use some contact cleaner. Make sure there's no old rust and residue. Install your center spacer. We've already installed the bearings on the other side of this point. So we're going to go ahead and, once again, grease the hub up so that the bearing will slide in a little easier. It won't hang up on anything.

As we install this, we need to be really careful not to apply any force to the inner race. So as we tap this in with a hammer, make sure we're just hitting on the outside race. And of course we want to go in as level as possible. As you can see, I'm not hitting it, I'm just barely tapping it. Now we're going to use a large socket. Once again, I just want to make sure that we just touch on the outer race of that bearing.

Any force that's applied to the inner race is going to weaken your bearing. Go ahead and seat that down. You're going to be able to hear sound when it is seated. At this point, you would reinstall any retaining clips, if your bike was equipped, and you go ahead and lube up the seal, and most of the time you need to use your fingers. Press that in. Now you're ready for your spacer, and you're complete.

The Tusk Bearing Remover also works great for blind bearings, such that you would find in an engine case. There's no way to really knock that out, so it needs to be pulled out. So here we're finding the collet. This is just slightly smaller than the inner race-threading in the spreader bolt, attaching the slide hammer, and pulling it out. This makes a bearing that was nearly impossible to remove an easy task.