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value if you try to buy all the parts this seal head includes you would be 100$ the quality off all balls products has been questionable with me in the past due to part failures hopefully this seal head holds up. The snap ring included with the seal head was to big for my shock body and I had to reuse the old one which wasn't a problem however if your going to include it, it should work. Durability 4 stars because it's yet to prove itself. Fitment 3 because the snap ring. Otherwise it would be a 4
I'd give it a 1 star if I was positive the dealer service rep installed this perfectly. Last night my rear shock dumped all the fluid on my garage floor. No hard riding on it and dealer installed so I don't know why it happened. Maybe the service rep messed up idk. Either way won't buy again and I don't recommend this.
I purchased this item for a 2014 XC 250 because I was in a pinch and could not get the OEM seal for the seal head in time for a race. The aftermarket seal head has a physically smaller top out rubber insert than the OEM and I was concerned the shock would go metal to metal on top out. Because of that I intended to replace it with the OEM after the race. However it performed flawlessly and I raced the rest of the season with it winning the 250 expert class. I race the AMRA off-road series that consists of 2 to 3 hour long races over varied terrain and quite often includes an MX track. The shock has cycled tens of thousands of times in all conditions with absolutely no problems.
These are great seal kits. I have used to them in KYB, Showa and WP shocks and they have been magic each time.. this is my go to part for shock rebuilds now. great product that's just as good or better than OEM and cheaper too!. Everything you need to replace that leaky seal all in one, drop in ready. Bingo!
Machine this part was bought for: 2001 YAMAHA YZ250
Love the seal kit. Installed it when I was doing a stiffer spring. Had it on for maybe 2k and not leaking. Seals all fit tight, and the RockyMountainATV KLR seal video made it very easy.
Machine this part was bought for: 2005 KAWASAKI KLR65
Great product. I imagine they are similar quality to OEM but at a lot better price. I've used this brand bearings for a lot of years and am completely satisfied. The greatest benefit is that the name of this product makes you feel like you're going to be especially daring. When you show you're wife the package, she thinks things are finally going to change in the bedroom. She'll be disappointed in the packaging, but not the product.
There are generally two acceptable methods of fixing a leaking shock seal - disassemble the OE component or replace it with this aftermarket one. The rebuild is technically cheaper, but the prospect of prying apart what is essentially a sealed unit from Kawasaki is daunting to put it mildly. The All Balls shock seal kit is a drop in replacement for the OE part - no disassembly required - so it's a no brainer.
Machine this part was bought for: 2004 KAWASAKI KLR650
Installed this on my KDX 220 last year and have had absolutely no problems with it. Installed easily. Well worth doing the job myself. No reason to have a leaky shock seal when they are easy to fix yourself.
Machine this part was bought for: 2003 KAWASAKI KDX220
My initial nervousness about installing a relatively inexpensive, aftermarket shock seal faded after it performed flawlessly for the last half of the racing season.
Machine this part was bought for: 2008 KAWASAKI KX65
This part makes it easier to rebuild your old rear shock, cheaper than buying a new shock, definitely recommend upgrading the spring also when you rebuild the shock.
Machine this part was bought for: 2007 KAWASAKI KLR650
The CR250R oem shock seal head has a groove for the top out spring, its a common question for this item. It will work fine confirmed by a Suspension shop, they use these too so they can replace the seal as a unit. Great products! Thanks RMATV!
Machine this part was bought for: 2003 HONDA CR250R
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Other than shock oil, do I need anything else other than this seal kit to rebuild my shock?
A shopper
on Jun 23, 2017
BEST ANSWER:I used brake cleaner to remove all dirt & oil before reassembly but depending on the shock you may have to grind off the top of the post to remove the nut on top of the dampening rod. Then you might need to buy a new nut if the old one is damaged & stake the top of the nut to the post so it wont back out or use lock tight. There are some videos on youtube that explain better & show you how to do all these tasks.
BEST ANSWER:I used brake cleaner to remove all dirt & oil before reassembly but depending on the shock you may have to grind off the top of the post to remove the nut on top of the dampening rod. Then you might need to buy a new nut if the old one is damaged & stake the top of the nut to the post so it wont back out or use lock tight. There are some videos on youtube that explain better & show you how to do all these tasks.
other than the tools to disassemble the shock no..I used a vice and held my resevior up above the shock, letting the shock hang and bled the shock over night, fairly straight forward.. no issues at all
I had to have my shock recharged with nitrogen after the rebuild. I purchased the part took it to a local shop and had them to do the rebuild and recharge and it seems like it was less $40 total.
Just need a good clean space some mechanical skills. They make special tools to help but you can do it without them . Only other thing needed is to get / have it charged with nitrogen !
You will need to have it recharged with nitrogen when you are done. Local shop will have what you need. Just bring it in and have the charge it for you
when I get my rear shock rebuilt with the all balls seal kit will I need to purchase a tusk bottom out bumper along with the *top out bumper* that comes with the all balls seal kit ?
BEST ANSWER:It depends on if the existing bottom out bumper is wore out. You can see it on the shock cylinder inside the spring. Each time your shock is bottomed out it will compress it, and over time it will wear it out and make it slightly softer and not quite as effective. I usually just replace them as during your rebuild you will have the whole shock tore down so they are easy to get to and also they are not that expensive a part. Would be a shame to finish up the shock rebuild and THEN find out the bumper was wore out.
BEST ANSWER:It depends on if the existing bottom out bumper is wore out. You can see it on the shock cylinder inside the spring. Each time your shock is bottomed out it will compress it, and over time it will wear it out and make it slightly softer and not quite as effective. I usually just replace them as during your rebuild you will have the whole shock tore down so they are easy to get to and also they are not that expensive a part. Would be a shame to finish up the shock rebuild and THEN find out the bumper was wore out.
the rear shock seal kit that all balls provides and the new shock bumper are what you need. dont forget the shock seal bullet tool or you will ruin the seal on the shaft. dont try to set the seal without the fluid in the shock or it will never set. good luck. my rebuild lasted 6months then I bought a new progressive rear shock.
It really depends on the condition of your current bottom out bumper. I would suggest that if your bottom out bumper is in good condition (no cracks, holes, falling apart) then there is no need to replace it. A bottom out bumper should be replaced if the old one is cracking or falling apart.
If the bumper on the bottom of the shock is not falling apart/cracked etc you can reuse it. The shock seal head is the complete assembly and all that you need.
Does anyone know how to access the valves and seals on a 2001 raptor 660 rear shock?
A shopper
on Jul 16, 2017
BEST ANSWER:The same way for any other bike. You need to disassemble the shock. Then you will need to grind off the preening on the nut end of the shock shaft, remove the nut. Carefully, you will need to remove the valving and piston. Remove the seal head and replace the seal head, it is much easier to replace the seal head than the seals. Then reassemble the shock shaft and then the shock.
BEST ANSWER:The same way for any other bike. You need to disassemble the shock. Then you will need to grind off the preening on the nut end of the shock shaft, remove the nut. Carefully, you will need to remove the valving and piston. Remove the seal head and replace the seal head, it is much easier to replace the seal head than the seals. Then reassemble the shock shaft and then the shock.
BEST ANSWER:Once the spring is removed, take a hammer and punch and tap off the cap on the bottom of the shock where the chrome shaft enters the shock. Once the cap is off, tap the seal head down just a bit to expose the circlip on the shock body. Remove the clip, then slowly pull the shock shaft until the seal head and valving pops out of the shock body.
BEST ANSWER:Once the spring is removed, take a hammer and punch and tap off the cap on the bottom of the shock where the chrome shaft enters the shock. Once the cap is off, tap the seal head down just a bit to expose the circlip on the shock body. Remove the clip, then slowly pull the shock shaft until the seal head and valving pops out of the shock body.
if it is your first time, I would not recommend experimenting on a shock. They aren't very beginner friendly. However if you do feel up to the challenge, Yamaha service manual shows break down and assembly of the shock
BEST ANSWER:All balls makes seals for all different kinds of shocks, it would probably be best to talk with a representative that knows, or is competent at using a caliper and see if they would measure for you
BEST ANSWER:All balls makes seals for all different kinds of shocks, it would probably be best to talk with a representative that knows, or is competent at using a caliper and see if they would measure for you