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This is the fastest and least expensive way to improve your cooling system effectiveness. I’m looking forward for the summer time to be able to judge even better the improved capabilities . 0.4bar extra is 25% more pressure in the system compared to the standard one.
I've owned several of the CV4 high pressure caps in the past and they have all worked great. If you're cooling system is on the edge of boiling and steaming in tight technical spots this cap will usually take care of the problem by raising the system pressure.
I ride in high temps through rock gardens and occasionally slog through deep sand and silt and these caps are mandatory. They can get you home without boil overs and runs dry even without radiator fans and coolant catch cans in the worst high heat conditions. The very best thing you can do right up front to heat proof your bike.
I noticed my cooling fan coming on frequently with the stock radiator cap. After I swapped out the stock cap with the CV4 Radiator Cap, I noticed the fan does not come on unless it's really hot (+90 Degrees), I'm climbing, and moving slowly. No boiling over, and coolant level stays full. This is a must to keep your machine running cool. Heat kills your power and wears on the moving parts.
I tried this on my 2007 sx-f 250 hoping it would help with overheating problems. So far it seems to have fixed it..... I like to ride a lot of single track, and blaze new trail wherever I can. Now I don't have to keep shutting my bike off to cool it down....
When ever any of my customers have over heating issues I always recommend this cap and have great success. I am reviewing this product for high altitude riding and very technical riding.
Boiled over in the woods and trail blazing thru tall grass. I changed to ice anti-freeze which helped, but this new cap made a big difference. My bike is known to run hot, but problem solved !!
I'm not sure how helpful this was, technically is should...
It's hard to tell how effective this part is because I also upgraded the water pump impeller and I did this early on to avoid boil overs. I'm guessing that the combination of both parts helped, as well as the samco T-stat bypass hoses. Now and then on hard hill climbs where I'm struggling the bike will steam but I've never had to add more than what would amount to a mouthful of water to it. I do not have a fan on my bike and would like to avoid that.
Put this on a the same time I installed the Thermobob kit. I installed this cap to help the performance of the kit at higher altitudes and it does wok wonders.
Big improvement over the stock radiator cap. Before i had multiple boil overs, now there's one less thing i need to worry about on the track and trails.
Machine this part was bought for: 2006 KTM 250 SX-
I had a problem with my bike boiling over in the summer months at the track. I would lose 1/4 of the coolant minimum during my moto.. The CV4 cap fit just like stock and resolved the problem. No more coolant loss! Well worth the money.
Machine this part was bought for: 2014 SUZUKI RMZ450
had some overheating on some slower paced races because of mud but raising cap pressure seems to have helped ,so far good move no more overheating problems.
Machine this part was bought for: 2014 KAWASAKI KX250
bought the highest pressure cap I could to keep from boiling over. I ride 115 degree summers on tight trails and haven't had an issue since I installed this cap. I know it doesn't lower operating temps at all but at least im not losing coolant making my situation worse.
Machine this part was bought for: 2006 HONDA CRF450R
BUYER TAKE NOTE: make sure you know what the pressure range is for your cooling system. If you raise the pressure too high, you could damage every downstream component (water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc.). The 2014-15 Honda Rancher is rate between 15-20 PSI (1.1 - 1.4 bar). Going any higher is dangerous and could void your warranty if you blow the cooling system due to high pressures. I bought the 1.4 bar CV4 cap because that's still within the pressure range for my ATV (20 PSI). Couple this cap with Engine Ice coolant, and my ATV never goes above 2 bars on the temperature gauge. None of this makes the engine run colder - that's dangerous - but it does enable it to run at the optimal temperature consistently across various types of riding. I ride on trails that don't allow high speeds, so the radiator fan used to come on all the time and the temperature would spike. Now, it runs very efficiently. Well worth the small cost. Make sure you do your research before putting a high pressure cap on your ATV. Higher pressure isn't always better, even if it does prevent "boil over."
Machine this part was bought for: 2014 HONDA Rancher 420 AT 4x4 IRS
This cap keeps the coolant where it belongs - so much so that I removed the overflow bottle from my WR. Even in the heat of summer with some slow-speed trail sections, it doesn't lose any coolant. If you go this route, just be aware that it puts greater pressure on the rest of your cooling system seals and components. No issue for a healthy system.
Machine this part was bought for: 2011 YAMAHA WR450F
It does what it is intended to do. It raises the boiling point of coolant. The only complaint is that it is a real pain to turn to remove. It is on very tight. I usually put on a pair of mechanics gloves to get enough grip to turn the cap.
Haven't overheated yet since I put this cap on! CV4 offers a 1.4 and 2.0 bar cap. I went with the 2.0 because I run woods races and that's the last thing I need is to loose coolant. Costed me a top end earlier this year so never again will I run a stock cap...
This cap is ideal if you want to increase the pressure of your cooling system to reduce boil-over in hot conditions. Perfect fit and bike never boils over, even in summer while riding tight woods.
Machine this part was bought for: 2013 KAWASAKI KX250F
BEST ANSWER:No. I run a 2.1 on my 450 that I use in Florida/Georgia for 2-hr hare scrambles and 4-5 hour ensuros. The key to using a higher pressure cap is ensuring that you use the recomended coolant type in the system and not aftermarket "super" coolant without the proper lubricant additives to condition the seals. I have fellow riders on 250's using the 1.8 bar caps with much success. I hope this helps.
BEST ANSWER:No. I run a 2.1 on my 450 that I use in Florida/Georgia for 2-hr hare scrambles and 4-5 hour ensuros. The key to using a higher pressure cap is ensuring that you use the recomended coolant type in the system and not aftermarket "super" coolant without the proper lubricant additives to condition the seals. I have fellow riders on 250's using the 1.8 bar caps with much success. I hope this helps.
Should be fine. I used this cv4 cap on a ktm520sx. On my ‘05&’06 kx250f I used the Tusk hi pressure cap with temp gauge which was 1.8 bar and was fine.
BEST ANSWER:This high pressure radiator cap raises the boiling point of the coolant in your machine. Therefore, you can run it harder and longer with less risk of boiling it over.
BEST ANSWER:This high pressure radiator cap raises the boiling point of the coolant in your machine. Therefore, you can run it harder and longer with less risk of boiling it over.
Enter an answer to this question.50/50 ratio of coolant has a boiling point of 223 degrees. Straight water has a boiling point of 212 degrees. Both however are boosted significantly by the pressure in the system. A standard 1.1 bar cap adds 48 degrees to the boiling point of either fluid. So the coolant in your car will not actually boil until ~260 degrees, or ~271 degrees if it has antifreeze mixed in. Adding the additional 0.2 bar of pressure gives us another 8.7 degrees in both cases.
By upping our cooling system pressure to 1.3 bar we gain about 8.7 degrees. Antifreeze only adds 11 degrees to our boiling point, so the main reason for running a 1.3 bar cap is to run straight distilled water (with water wetter to prevent corrosion) or a significantly reduced antifreeze ratio without danger of boiling over. Specifically, in the summer months.
So why not run it this way all the time? Well, let's not forget the freezing point. While the pressure cap trick gives us a higher boiling point, it does not a thing for freezing point. If your area doesn't get down to negative temperatures in the winter, you can run a decreased ratio of antifreeze to coolant if you like all year round. However, I'd still run 50/50 in the winter. The good news is, in the winter, there's less need for excellent cooling as air intake temps and ambient temps help you out a lot more than in the summer.